Pennsylvania State Capitol
Part 2: The Art and Interior Architecture
The Pennsylvania State Capitol is an active seat of government where you will find the Governor’s Offices, the House and Senate offices and meeting chambers, many state offices, and the Pennsylvania Supreme Court. All working within the walls of what has lived up to Joseph Huston’s vision of a Palace of Art.
The design for the capitol was selected through a competition which was won by Huston. The requirements included use of an existing interim building, which he completely encapsulated within the walls of the new construction. Huston’s design drawings present a Renaissance Revival design with embellishments both inside and out as can be seen in his competition drawings of the front elevation and interior rotunda and dome.
Rotunda
The interior staircase in the Rotunda was modeled after the design of the grand staircase in the Paris Opera House in Paris France. The stairs are finished in a Carrera Italian marble, and the white interior walls are finished in Vermont marble.
There are four large lunette murals and four rondel, or circular medallion murals in the Rotunda by Edwin Austin Abbey, completed in 1909. The lunettes include The Spirit of Religious Liberty, The Spirit of Light, Science Revealing Treasures of the Earth, and The Spirit of Vulcan.
The Spirit of Religious Liberty depicts angels guiding William Penn’s ships from England to the New World in colonial times where he had been granted by King Charles II the lands that became the Province of Pennsylvania.
The Spirit of Light depicts both the spiritual light of the New World through the religious freedom promoted by Penn, and the oil production industry seen in the background that brought physical light.
The Science Revealing Treasures of the Earth depicts angels guiding man to the Earth’s riches found in minerals, plants, and animals.
The Spirit of Vulcan depicts the allegorical figure overseeing the workers creating steel from the iron ore mined in Pennsylvania.
The four allegorical figures in the rondels between the lunettes represent Art, Law, Religion, and Science.
An inscription around the interior dome is a quote from William Penn, which reads: There may be room there for such a holy experiment, for the nations want a precedent. And my God will make it the seed of a nation. That an example may be set up to the nations. That we may do the thing that is truly wise and just.
Edwin Austin Abbey, 1852 to 1911, was born in Philadelphia and studied at the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts. His early work included illustrations in magazines and books. In 1878 he moved to England where he completed many large murals and then brought them back to the states for installation. His largest and grandest work is perhaps the “Quest and Achievement of the Holy Grail,” which you can see and read about in my story on the McKim Building in Boston.
There are four statues in the niches built in to the walls around the Rotunda, they are memorials to Andrew Curtin, George Oliver, Matthew Quay, and Thomas Stewart.
Andrew Gregg Curtin, 1815 to 1894, was Governor during the Civil War, and served in the US House of Representatives and as an Ambassador to Russia. He was instrumental in setting up the National Cemetery at Gettysburg.
Matthew Stanley Quay, 1833 to 1904, was a lawyer, US Senator, Representative, and Colonel in the Union Army during the Civil War.
Both statues are by unidentified sculptors.
George T Oliver, 1848 to 1919, was a US Senator, lawyer, and publisher.
Thomas J Stewart, 1848 to 1917, served in the Civil War for the Union Army and later became a Brigadier General, and statesman.
Both statues were sculpted by Otto Schweizer.
Jakob Otto Schweizer, 1863 to 1955, was born in Zurich Switzerland and studied at the Zurich Industrial Arts School, Dresden Academy of Fine Arts in Germany, and then in Florence Italy. He immigrated to New York in 1894 and settled in Philadelphia.
In addition to the statues, there are several memorial plaques with reliefs of notable Pennsylvanians; Joseph Rothrock, Samuel Dixon, and Joseph Kalbfus. The sculptors are not identified.
Joseph Trimble Rothrock, 1839 to 1923, was the first state commissioner of forestry, and noted as advancing the restoration of forest and wildlife habitats in Pennsylvania.
Samuel G. Dixon, 1851 to 1918, was a medical doctor, lawyer and scientist. He became Pennsylvania’s first commissioner of health and advanced both medicine and environmental sanitation.
Joseph Kalbfus, 1852 to 1919, was a pioneer, wildlife protector, frontiersman, lawyer, and dentist, and was noted for advancing protections and restoration of wildlife.
There are several beautiful allegorical sculptures in the Rotunda flanking the entrances and staircases that are by unidentified sculptors.
From the Rotunda are hyphen corridors on each level leading to the Senate Gallery and House Gallery at opposite ends of the building. Not all of these corridors were accessible as they include access to active office areas.
As shown in the illustration above, the hyphen corridors on the first level were not completed as originally envisioned by Huston, but they are still impressive. They include hundreds of mosaics covering the first floor throughout the galleries, corridors, and rotunda, which depict scenes from Pennsylvania history, including artifacts, wildlife, workers, transportation and industry. These mosaics were created by Henry Chapman Mercer in a Pennsylvania German Folk Art style, and as a whole are known as a Carpet of History.
Henry Chapman Mercer, 1856 to 1930, was born in Doylestown Pennsylvania and studied at Harvard University, and the University of Pennsylvania. He became an archeologist, artifacts collector, tile maker, and designer. He founded the Moravian Pottery and Tile Works in 1898, and designed and produced the mosaics in the floor of the Capitol depicting Pennsylvania history from prehistoric times to the early 1900s.
The House and Senate Galleries at each end of the hyphen corridors open up to the full height of the building and the skylights above where entrances to the Chambers and public galleries can be found.
House Chamber
The House of Representatives Chamber features an Italian Renaissance design by Huston, and has been beautifully preserved including the original desks for the 203 members. Materials include mahogany from Belize in Central America, and marble from the Pyrenees Mountains in France.
In the center behind the Speaker’s podium is the mural “Apotheosis of Pennsylvania” completed by Edwin Austin Abbey in 1911, and features prominent leaders in Pennsylvania history.
To the left of center is the mural of Penn’s Treaty with the Indians, by Abbey, which depicts William Penn and colonists establishing a peace treaty with Native American tribal leaders.
To the right is The Reading of the Declaration of Independence, depicted in front of Independence Hall in Philadelphia, which was the seat of government for the Province at that time.
The circular mural in the ceiling is The Hours by Abbey, showing the passage of time with 24 maidens traveling around the Moon and Stars in a never ending circle.
Edwin Abbey completed “Von Steuben Training the American Soldiers at Valley Forge” and was working on the Reading of the Declaration of Independence in 1911 when he died. His studio assistants Earnest Board, and possibly William Simmonds, completed the work under the direction of Abbey’s friend, John Singer Sargent. The House Chamber murals by Abbey include The Hours, Penn’s Treaty with the Indians, The Camp of the American Army at Valley Forge, February 1778, and The Reading of the Declaration of Independence. The remaining murals originally commissioned to Abbey were given to Violet Oakley who completed the works using her own designs.
Earnest Board, 1877 to 1934, was born in southern England along the coast, and studied at the Academy of fine Arts in London. He was an accomplished artist with a passion for seascapes, and is believed to be one of the artist assistant to Edwin Abbey that helped complete his works when Abbey died in 1911.
William Simmonds, 1876 to 1968, was born in England and studied at the Royal College of Art. He was a draftsman, designer, and is possibly another artist assistant that helped complete the work when Abbey died in 1911.
There are 14 stained glass panels in the House Chamber by William Brantley Van Ingen. These two are titled Steam Engineering and Religion, and along with the others cover themes in education, justice, and abundance.
In addition, there is a House Corridor that was not accessible on this visit, which features 14 paintings by Van Ingen depicting religious groups that were instrumental in the founding of Pennsylvania.
William Brantley Van Ingen, 1858 to 1955, was born in Philadelphia and studied at the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, and apprenticed in New York City under John La Farge, Francis Lathrop, and Lewis C. Tiffany. In addition to the stained glass panels at the Pennsylvania State Capitol he was also a noted muralist.
Senate Chamber
The Senate Chamber features a French Renaissance design by architect Joseph Huston, and includes the original mahogany desks from Belize for the 50 senators, and walls of green Connemara marble from Ireland. The finishes has been beautifully preserved and restored including the detailing in 23 carat gold leafing throughout. The murals are by the artists Violet Oakley, and the stained glass windows are by William Van Ingen.
Violet Oakley’s murals feature scenes on The Creation and Preservation of the Union, with the allegorical figure Unity overlooking George Washington during the creation of the Union, and Abraham Lincoln during the preservation of the Union.
Unity reaches out to ban all wars striving for a World without War, and to ban all slavery striving for a World without Slavery.
On each of the side aisles are additional murals depicting General Washington with his troops during the Revolutionary War, and General Meade with his troops during the Civil War.
Violet Oakley, 1874 to 1961, was born in Jersey City New Jersey, and studied at the Art Students League of New York, and in England and France, and then at the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts, and at Drexel Institute. She was originally commissioned to produce the murals for the Governor’s Grand Reception Room, but after the death of Abbey, she continued his work in her own designs for the Senate and Supreme Court Chambers. She was selected by Huston because of her amazing work but also to help promote women’s status in society. She became a promotor of women’s rights and world peace.
There are 10 stained glass panels in the Senate Chamber by Van Ingen. These two are titled Militia and Railroads, and along with the others cover themes in the arts, sciences, and industry.
In addition, there is a Senate Corridor that was not accessible on this visit, which is lined with paintings by Vincent Maragliotti depicting transportation and industry in Pennsylvania.
Governor’s Reception Room
The Governor’s Reception Room was not accessible on this visit, but includes additional paintings by Violet Oakley, depicting themes on The Founding of the State of Spiritual Liberty, and completed in 1906.
Supreme Court Chamber
The Supreme Court includes seating areas for the seven justices, the attorneys, and a public viewing area, and in the center of the room is a leaded glass dome by Alfred Godwin. This skylight is one of several skylights and windows in the Capitol that are believed to have been done by Godwin.
Alfred Godwin, 1850 to 1934, was born in England and emigrated to the United States in 1874. He trained in glass work in England and opened a shop in Philadelphia in 1878, and eventually partnered with Wilhelm Reith to form a larger company, producing stained glass artworks for churches and public buildings primarily in and around the Philadelphia area.
The paintings lining the upper walls in the Supreme Court are by Violet Oakley and depict themes on The Opening of the Book of Law. Including the Revealed Law …
… the Law of Nations, …
… Common Law, and International Law …
… Devine Law, and the Law of Nature.
The murals by Oakley and Abbey reference versus from the Bible as part of many of their artistic compositions. In all their are about 39 verses including the Ten Commandments in the Supreme Court Chamber.
The Pennsylvania State Capitol is perhaps the most decorative of all the State Capitols, and has earned the name a Palace of Art. It cost 13 million in 1906, but is considered priceless today. The cost, unfortunately, led to more controversy for Huston after the building was completed, but while much of the artwork was still in progress. A politically motivated audit was conducted of the cost, which was about two to three times the amount originally approved by the legislature, but technically permitted by law. The auditor presented evidence of price gouging on a number of items that resulted in five people being charged with graft. Huston was among those charged and convicted, and even after an appeal, he ended up serving two years in jail. This investigation was only one of many capitol construction investigations ongoing across the country at that time. It was basically an unfortunate trend that had become a highlight of newspaper reporting resulting in political pressure for investigations that may or may not have had legitimate cause. In the end, Huston was quoted as saying “It was my first public building, and, please God, it will be my last.” Regardless of the past difficulties for Huston, the people of Pennsylvania have a beautiful “Palace of Art” for which they can be proud.
Travel Notes
My second trip was to see the interior of the capitol since it was closed on my first visit during the pandemic in 2020. My route included a tour at the Maryland State House on my trip up to see my family in Boston for the Thanksgiving holiday, and then the Pennsylvania State Capitol on my return. It was late November and cold outside, and inside there was work in progress decorating the Rotunda for the upcoming holidays.
I’m driving a Tesla Model 3 so my navigation system tracks the best travel routes considering for both traffic and charging stations. On my way up I had no choice but to deal with the New York City traffic since I had routed through Annapolis.
For my return trip to Harrisburg I’ve learned that routing to Scranton Pennsylvania makes for a nice drive with more scenic views. There is a Tesla Supercharger at The Shoppes at Montage Mountain in Moosic near Scranton where I can eat lunch while charging. The distance is longer but the time is about the same with much less traffic.
Notes and References
One of the things about this capitol that is disturbing to me is the fact that one of the most beautiful buildings in our country led to the imprisonment of its architect, Joseph Huston. My reading on the topic has led me to believe that the controversy was politically motivated. I have spoken to a historian about this who had similar observations, and we both agreed that Huston is due a posthumous pardon. I hope that someday the state will take up this issue and honor Huston for his beautiful creation.
Story and photographs by David Smitherman, with data collected from onsite inscriptions and brochures, Wikipedia, and Google Maps. Site visits were made in July 2020, November 2021, and November 2024.
“Temples of Democracy: The State Capitols of the U.S.A.,” by Henry-Russell Hitchcock and William Seale, Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, New York, London, 1976.